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What is phytosqualene?
The skin surface is covered by a lipid film, appearing
as a result of mixing sebaceous gland secret (glandulae sebaceae) with lipids, produced by keratinocytes. This surface film
contains 11 – 15% of squalene (triterpenic hydrocarbon). This substance is found in a great quantity in shark liver
(squalus in Latin). Investigations have shown that squalene, extracted from a shark liver, possesses immunostimulating and
antioxidant properties. It also prevents from tumours development. But using fat from shark liver in cosmetics has its shortcomings.
First of all, many consumers don’t want to buy cosmetic products, containing animal ingredients. Besides, sharks are
big animals with long life span and they are disposed for accumulation of various toxins, such as mercury, pesticides and
other industrial poisons, in their tissues, including liver. Scientists have found out that it is not quite obligatory to
extract squalene from shark liver. This substance is widely spread in plants.
One of the main sources of phytosqualene
is olive oil. It is also found in a considerable quantity in wheat germ oil and rice bran, palm and amaranth oils.
Since squalene is a natural component of skin fat phytosqualene is well compatible with skin. Investigations
have shown that squalene is non-comedogenous in contrast to triglycerides and fatty acids of surface skin fat. Squalene is
inclined to oxidation owing to its high unsaturability. Therefore in cosmetics more stable form of squalene is used –
squalane (a product, received as a result of squalene hydration).
Phytosqualene is an antioxidant
and immonostimulator, possesses antiinflammatory and antitumoral properties. But for all that it does not contain heavy metals
and other toxins which can be found in sharak liver fat. In cosmetic products phytosqualene is often used as a moisturizing
agent and as a conductor, improving penetration of other active components into skin. For example, mixture of phytosqualene
and acetyl-hexa-peptide-3 – bioligically active peptide - is used for correction of mimic wrinkles. This mixture is
used in Magiray “Complete Lift Complex” line (CLC Eye Contour Serum, CLC Eye Contour Mask, CLC Skin Renovation
Moisturizer and CLC Wrinkle Away Cream). In combination with phytosqualene acetyl-hexa-peptide-3 is more effective as it penetrates
into mimic muscles quicker and immunostimulating and moisturizing activity of phytosqualene noticeably increases rejuvenating
effect of this complex.
Phytosqualene is also included in Active Alpha Cream, Argalane Cream Mask and CocoShake