Phytosqualene

The skin surface is covered by a lipid film, appearing as a result of mixing sebaceous gland secret (glandulae sebaceae) with lipids, produced by keratinocytes. This surface film contains 11 – 15% of squalene (triterpenic hydrocarbon). This substance is found in a great quantity in shark liver (squalus in Latin). Investigations have shown that squalene, extracted from a shark liver, possesses immunostimulating and antioxidant properties. It also prevents from tumours development. But using fat from shark liver in cosmetics has its shortcomings. First of all, many consumers don’t want to buy cosmetic products, containing animal ingredients. Besides, sharks are big animals with long life span and they are disposed for accumulation of various toxins, such as mercury, pesticides and other industrial poisons, in their tissues, including liver. Scientists have found out that it is not quite obligatory to extract squalene from shark liver. This substance is widely spread in plants.

One of the main sources of phytosqualene is olive oil. It is also found in a considerable quantity in wheat germ oil and rice bran, palm and amaranth oils.

Since squalene is a natural component of skin fat phytosqualene is well compatible with skin. Investigations have shown that squalene is non-comedogenous in contrast to triglycerides and fatty acids of surface skin fat. Squalene is inclined to oxidation owing to its high unsaturability. Therefore in cosmetics more stable form of squalene is used – squalane (a product, received as a result of squalene hydration).

Phytosqualene is an antioxidant and immonostimulator, possesses antiinflammatory and antitumoral properties. But for all that it does not contain heavy metals and other toxins which can be found in sharak liver fat. In cosmetic products phytosqualene is often used as a moisturizing agent and as a conductor, improving penetration of other active components into skin. For example, mixture of phytosqualene and acetyl-hexa-peptide-3 – bioligically active peptide - is used for correction of mimic wrinkles. This mixture is used in Magiray “Complete Lift Complex” line (CLC Eye Contour Serum, CLC Eye Contour Mask, CLC Skin Renovation Moisturizer and CLC Wrinkle Away Cream). In combination with phytosqualene acetyl-hexa-peptide-3 is more effective as it penetrates into mimic muscles quicker and immunostimulating and moisturizing activity of phytosqualene noticeably increases rejuvenating effect of this complex.

Phytosqualene is also included in Active Alpha Cream, Argalane Cream Mask and CocoShake Airy Cream.

What is phytosqualene?