2011 - This is our special New Year news release, where we offer related items concerning the skin and cosmetic ingredients from the laboratories all over the world.

January 2011, Hamburg, Germany
It is well known that in aging skin one can observe changes in collagen properties. Collagen becomes less elastic and flexible. For this reason many ingredients in anti-wrinkle creams as well as many cosmetic procedures are aimed to destroy old and not elastic collagen and to stimulate synthesis of new one. However, as recent investigations have demonstrated, it is not enough, as in old skin onу can see changes not only in collagen, but also in cells, producing collagen – fibroblasts. The walls of their cells and their intracellular fibers harden and become stiffer. As a result the cells become less movable and are not able to perform their functions for synthesis of collagen in a proper way.

February 2011, Lion, France
Orthosiphon (orthosiphon fuciphagus) or java tea is able to suppress activity of 5-alpha-reductases, so that secretion of sebum and acne development go down. Clinical testes of the cream, containing 2% of orthosiphon, have confirmed its ability to lessen skin oiliness, contract pores and prevent acne appearance.

March 2011, Kioto, Japan
Swallows Aerodramus fuciphagus make their nests from saliva, solidifying in the air. These nests area used as food in Asia and recently it has been discovered that these nests possess medicinal properties. Food additives with extracts of swallow nests fasten bones and increase the skin thickness in rats with removed ovaries. The scientists believe that extracts of swallow nests are able to slow down appearance of changes in skin and bones in women in menopause period.  

April 2011, Essen, Germany
Hyaluronic acid – natural water-retaining gel, presents in intercellular substance of derma and also in Natural Moisturizing Factor of horny layer. Modern technologies allow to receive hyaluronic acid in the form of fragments with specific molecular weight. The smaller a fragment the easier it passes through horny layer. However it does not mean that the smaller fragments of hyaluronic acid the better. Experiments have shown that hyaluronic acid having fragments of approximately 20kDa, can reinforce inflammatory process, stimulating production of inflammatory cytokines. On the contrary, hyaluronic acid with fragments of, approximately, 50kDa, not only readily penetrates through horny layer without causing inflammation, but also activates a number of genes, stimulating division of skin cells and collagen synthesis.

May 2011, Bhopal, India
Extract of black caraway (Nigella sativa) and its basic active substance – timochinon  turned out to be able to enhance synthesis of melanin in lizards melanocytes. Timochinon influences upon melanocytes like neuromediator – acetylcholine. As people and lizards have similar regulation of melanin synthesis the scientists believe, that extract of black caraway can be used in cosmetology and aesthetic medicine for stimulation of sun-tan and also for removal of depigmentation areas in patients with vitiligo.

June 2011, Lion, France
Extract of yarrow is able to reduce the depth of wrinkles and increase skin thickness and elasticity, influencing upon genes, responsible for synthesis of a number of biologically active substances in skin. The effect manifests itself already when cosmetic products contain 2% of the extract.

July 2011, Canagava, Japan
Surfactants, used in detergents, cause premature aging of normal skin cells in cell cultures without influencing upon tumour cells. The scientists have concluded that it is necessary to wash off detergents from the skin very carefully in order to prevent migration of detergent residuals into deep skin layers where they can speed up the process of aging.

August 2011, Messina, Italy
Phytoestrogens – substances of plant origin, resembling female sex hormones in its structure and action. They are often advertised as ingredients helping to slow down the skin aging, caused by decreasing of female sex hormones in the body. But till now there are no enough scientific data, confirming this fact. The experiments have shown that phytoestrogents, derived from soja, increase the skin thickness and the content of collagen in skin of rats with removed ovaries. This means that phytoestrogens are able to slow down the skin aging in women in menopause period.  

September 2011, Munich, Germany
Efficacy of 1% hyaluronic acid with different molecular weight was tested on 66 women ranging in age from 30 to  60 years. A cream, containing hyaluronic acid, was applied to the contour eye area on one side and placebo – one the other side. The skin condition was evaluated before the test and then – after 30 and 60 days respectively. It was found out that all the products, containing hyaluronic acid, improved significantly the skin elasticity and flexibility. But only low-molecular hyaluronic acid reduced the depth of wrinkles.  

October 2011, Seoul, Korea
Royal jelly - a bee product, containing proteins, carbohydrate, polyunsaturated lipids, aminoacids, vitamins and minerals. One of the main polyunsaturated fatty acids in royal jelly – 10-hydroxy-2- decanoic acid draws attention of scientists as they discovered its antitumoral and antibacterial activity. It also stimulates collagen synthesis. The experiments on UV-irradiated fibroblasts of human skin showed that this acid is able also to protect the skin cells from damaging UV-radiation. Royal jelly usually contains up to 0.02% of 10 hydroxy-2-decanoic acid at the average.

November 2011, Riding, Great Britain
Flavonoids from the extracts of cacao, berries (for example, acai and bilberries) and green tea have long been used in cosmetology for fighting free radicals, inflammation and premature skin aging. Not long ago it was found out that flavonoids also oppose degenerative processes in brain, preventing development of senile dementia and other problems. Partly this action is due to their antioxidant activity, but this is not the only mechanism for their action. It turned out, that these substances are able to change the activity of genes, including those, responsible for inflammation.  In aging brain the same as in aging skin one can see imbalance of genes and as a result one can observe synthesis of defective proteins and increasing inflammation and degenerative processes. Normalazing genes activity, flavonoids prolong both the youth of  skin as well as the youth of brain cells.  

December 2011, Madrid, Spain
Mollusk Cryptomphalus Aspersa secretes fluid, possessing regenerative properties. The experiments have shown that mollusk secret stimulates migration of cells, increases their resistance to adverse factors and stimulates division. Mullusk secret can be used in medicine for acceleration of wound healing and in cosmetology for rejuvenation of aging skin.

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