January 2011, Hamburg, Germany
It is well known that in aging skin one can observe
changes in collagen properties. Collagen becomes less elastic and flexible. For this reason many ingredients in anti-wrinkle
creams as well as many cosmetic procedures are aimed to destroy old and not elastic collagen and to stimulate synthesis of
new one. However, as recent investigations have demonstrated, it is not enough, as in old skin onу can see changes not
only in collagen, but also in cells, producing collagen – fibroblasts. The walls of their cells and their intracellular
fibers harden and become stiffer. As a result the cells become less movable and are not able to perform their functions for
synthesis of collagen in a proper way.
February 2011, Lion, France
Orthosiphon (orthosiphon fuciphagus) or
java tea is able to suppress activity of 5-alpha-reductases, so that secretion of sebum and acne development go down. Clinical
testes of the cream, containing 2% of orthosiphon, have confirmed its ability to lessen skin oiliness, contract pores and
prevent acne appearance.
2011, Kioto, Japan
Swallows Aerodramus fuciphagus make their nests from saliva, solidifying
in the air. These nests area used as food in Asia and recently it has been discovered that these nests possess medicinal properties.
Food additives with extracts of swallow nests fasten bones and increase the skin thickness in rats with removed ovaries. The
scientists believe that extracts of swallow nests are able to slow down appearance of changes in skin and bones in women in
2011, Essen, Germany
Hyaluronic acid – natural water-retaining gel, presents in intercellular
substance of derma and also in Natural Moisturizing Factor of horny layer. Modern technologies allow to receive hyaluronic
acid in the form of fragments with specific molecular weight. The smaller a fragment the easier it passes through horny layer.
However it does not mean that the smaller fragments of hyaluronic acid the better. Experiments have shown that hyaluronic
acid having fragments of approximately 20kDa, can reinforce inflammatory process, stimulating production of inflammatory cytokines.
On the contrary, hyaluronic acid with fragments of, approximately, 50kDa, not only readily penetrates through horny layer
without causing inflammation, but also activates a number of genes, stimulating division of skin cells and collagen synthesis.
Extract of black caraway (Nigella sativa) and its basic active substance –
timochinon turned out to be able to enhance synthesis of melanin in lizards melanocytes. Timochinon influences upon
melanocytes like neuromediator – acetylcholine. As people and lizards have similar regulation of melanin synthesis the
scientists believe, that extract of black caraway can be used in cosmetology and aesthetic medicine for stimulation of sun-tan
and also for removal of depigmentation areas in patients with vitiligo.
June 2011, Lion, France
Extract of yarrow is able to reduce the
depth of wrinkles and increase skin thickness and elasticity, influencing upon genes, responsible for synthesis of a number
of biologically active substances in skin. The effect manifests itself already when cosmetic products contain 2% of the extract.
Surfactants, used in detergents, cause premature aging of normal skin cells in cell
cultures without influencing upon tumour cells. The scientists have concluded that it is necessary to wash off detergents
from the skin very carefully in order to prevent migration of detergent residuals into deep skin layers where they can speed
up the process of aging.
2011, Messina, Italy
Phytoestrogens – substances of plant origin, resembling female sex hormones
in its structure and action. They are often advertised as ingredients helping to slow down the skin aging, caused by decreasing
of female sex hormones in the body. But till now there are no enough scientific data, confirming this fact. The experiments
have shown that phytoestrogents, derived from soja, increase the skin thickness and the content of collagen in skin of rats
with removed ovaries. This means that phytoestrogens are able to slow down the skin aging in women in menopause period.
Efficacy of 1% hyaluronic acid with different molecular weight was tested on 66 women
ranging in age from 30 to 60 years. A cream, containing hyaluronic acid, was applied to the contour eye area on one
side and placebo – one the other side. The skin condition was evaluated before the test and then – after 30 and
60 days respectively. It was found out that all the products, containing hyaluronic acid, improved significantly the skin
elasticity and flexibility. But only low-molecular hyaluronic acid reduced the depth of wrinkles.
October 2011, Seoul, Korea
Royal jelly - a bee product, containing proteins, carbohydrate, polyunsaturated lipids, aminoacids,
vitamins and minerals. One of the main polyunsaturated fatty acids in royal jelly – 10-hydroxy-2- decanoic acid draws
attention of scientists as they discovered its antitumoral and antibacterial activity. It also stimulates collagen synthesis.
The experiments on UV-irradiated fibroblasts of human skin showed that this acid is able also to protect the skin cells from
damaging UV-radiation. Royal jelly usually contains up to 0.02% of 10 hydroxy-2-decanoic acid at the average.
November 2011, Riding, Great
Flavonoids from the extracts of cacao, berries (for example, acai and bilberries) and green tea
have long been used in cosmetology for fighting free radicals, inflammation and premature skin aging. Not long ago it was
found out that flavonoids also oppose degenerative processes in brain, preventing development of senile dementia and other
problems. Partly this action is due to their antioxidant activity, but this is not the only mechanism for their action. It
turned out, that these substances are able to change the activity of genes, including those, responsible for inflammation.
In aging brain the same as in aging skin one can see imbalance of genes and as a result one can observe synthesis of defective
proteins and increasing inflammation and degenerative processes. Normalazing genes activity, flavonoids prolong both the youth
of skin as well as the youth of brain cells.
December 2011, Madrid, Spain
Mollusk Cryptomphalus Aspersa
secretes fluid, possessing regenerative properties. The experiments have shown that mollusk secret stimulates migration of
cells, increases their resistance to adverse factors and stimulates division. Mullusk secret can be used in medicine for acceleration
of wound healing and in cosmetology for rejuvenation of aging skin.